How to Fix Gaping Armholes in Dresses: 7 Checks

An armhole can gape for several reasons. Taking in the same amount in every dress can create a new problem, so identify the cause and test a reversible adjustment first.

1. Check the garment as it is worn

Try it with the undergarments you intend to wear. Check shoulder position, neckline and side seams as well as the armhole. A local gap can be a symptom of a wider fitting issue.

2. Check the size and intended ease

Compare your measurements with the pattern and finished-garment measurements. A garment that is too broad at the upper chest needs a different correction from one that lacks room at the bust.

3. Look for a stretched edge

Handling a curved or bias edge can distort it. Check whether it has stretched during construction before taking away pattern width. For future makes, use the pattern's staystitching and stabilising instructions.

4. Assess bust shaping

A full- or small-bust adjustment may change the armhole balance. It is not the same as simply tightening a side seam. Follow a method appropriate to the pattern, preferably on a toile.

5. Baste a possible alteration

Pin carefully, take the garment off and baste before committing. Check movement, coverage and symmetry. A dart or side-seam change affects shaping and may need corresponding changes to a facing or lining; do not use a universal dart depth.

6. Check the finish

A facing or binding that does not match the intended edge can pull it out of shape. Check length, seam allowance and construction. Elastic is not a general substitute for correcting the fit of a stable woven garment.

7. Test before trimming

Check the revised fit and comfort before cutting away allowances or unpicking extensively. A photograph and a few measurements may help diagnose the cause, but cannot replace checking the garment on the wearer.

Our pattern-sizing guide explains the difference between blending sizes and a shape-specific adjustment. Keep changes recorded on a traced pattern for the next make.