How to Sew a Professional Tailored Collar

A well-shaped collar is one of those details that makes a handmade jacket feel special. Take it a stage at a time, using the neckline, lapel and facing instructions for your pattern. A shirt collar and a notched jacket collar are put together differently.

Set out your tools

Have sharp fabric scissors, suitable thread, a marking tool and a pressing cloth ready. A pressing ham or roll can help support the shape as you work. Label the upper and undercollar pieces, and keep their markings visible so they’re easy to tell apart.

Start with the pattern pieces

Identify the upper collar, undercollar, facing, roll line and match points. Follow each piece's grain marking: an undercollar may deliberately use a different grain or be cut in sections. Do not impose one grain direction on every collar.

Choose support by testing

Follow the pattern's interfacing plan and assess it on the actual fabric. More stiffness is not automatically better. The lapel interfacing guide explains the questions to consider. Apply fusibles only with that product's heat, moisture and cooling instructions.

Allow for turn of cloth

Thicker cloth needs room to turn over its supporting layers. Some patterns build this into the upper and undercollar shapes. Follow the pattern’s shaping and check a sample before changing those edges.

Stitch and trim carefully

Use the pattern's seam allowances and the needle and stitch suited to the fabric. Slow down at corners, then grade or trim only where appropriate. There is no universal 2mm or 3mm trimming rule for every cloth: leave enough allowance to keep the seam secure.

Shape without forcing

Use a suitable turning tool gently and avoid puncturing the corner. Test pressing on an offcut. Shape the roll as the construction requires; do not flatten every collar into a sharp crease or assume steam permanently sets every fibre.

Check before attaching and finishing

Match the pattern's notches and seam lines and follow its neckline and facing sequence. Baste and inspect the collar sitting on the garment before final stitching. A practice collar or toile can reveal a fitting problem before you cut the final cloth.

Browse interfacings and ask Fabric Mouse if you need help with the details of a listed product. This guide supports a complete pattern; it is not a universal collar draft.