Sewing Machine Needle Types Explained

That little needle can make a surprisingly big difference to your afternoon’s sewing. Ordinary domestic sewing-machine needles use a standard fitting. Choose the point and type for the fabric and task, then the size to suit the thread and material.

System is not size

A code such as 130/705 H identifies a needle system, while 80/12 identifies a size. Overlockers, coverstitch and industrial machines may require a different system, so follow the instructions for those machines.

Which type should I consider?

• Universal: a general-purpose starting point for many woven fabrics and some knits, followed by a test.
• Jersey/ballpoint: intended for knit fabrics.
• Stretch: designed for highly elastic materials and certain knit applications; it is not merely another name for every ballpoint needle.
• Microtex/sharp: a fine sharp point for applications including tightly woven fabrics and some silks. Choose for the particular cloth and thread, then try an offcut.
• Embroidery or topstitch: consider the specific needle features and the thread manufacturer’s recommendations for the task.
• Jeans/denim or leather: these serve different applications. A leather cutting point is not a general heavy-fabric needle.

Use the needle maker’s chart for the exact range. A description such as “heavy duty” does not mean the needle cannot bend or break.

What do 75/11 and 90/14 mean?

The first number is the metric size and the second is the American size. A 70/10 needle is finer than a 90/14. Choose a size that accommodates the thread and material, and keep the type in mind too: a stretch needle and a universal needle of the same size are made for different jobs.

Fit it correctly

Switch off as instructed in the manual. Insert the needle fully, facing the specified direction, and secure the clamp. Check any restrictions for a built-in needle threader. With twin or specialist needles, check machine approval, spacing, plate and foot clearance before sewing.

Skipped stitches or shredding?

Stop and check the needle for damage, system, insertion and suitability. Check the thread and complete threading path too. Changing a needle may solve a setup problem, but it does not prove that every fault is needle-related.

Test on scraps with the same layers as your project. Replace damaged needles rather than sewing on until an arbitrary number of hours has passed. Our threading guide and thread-choice guide cover related checks.

See the SCHMETZ guide for examples of needle types and their uses.